Planes, Trains and Automobiles

It’s no secret that I love to drive. And I’m really good at it – no matter what some former co-workers might tell you! I may have missed my calling as an Indy Stock Car or Formula One racer, which may have led to the wildly popular conclusion that I drive fast. But I’ll have you know that my driving record is completely clean. Since being in Uganda, I (quite obviously) have not been doing much – er, any – driving. I kind of miss it, but I’m also having a lot of fun getting around in other ways.

1. Boda Boda. The fun, albeit somewhat dangerous, and usually fastest way to travel is on a boda boda. It looks like a cross between a motorcycle and a scooter (at least to me). I absolutely L-O-V-E riding on the boda. It’s fun and freeing … with the wind in your hair. And I have actually held out my hands and shouted “I’m on top of the world.” Yes, I’m THAT girl. Ha ha! Here are a few pointers in getting around via Boda Boda:

Uncle Alex, one of our trusty boda drivers

1. Always know your driver. It’s not exactly safe to just simply get on anyone’s boda boda. It’s best if you use the same drivers. Get a list in your phone and call when you need a ride.
2. Always board the boda boda from the left side.
3. If you sit “side saddle”, both legs must go to the left side.
4. You can literally carry anything on a boda boda. I’ve seen bodas loaded with sugar canes, brooms, bed frames, 5 people, luggage – the list goes on and on.
5. You can hold on if you must, but you kinda look like a sissy. (haha! That’s for Kristal)

2. Taxi. No, these are not the cute little yellow cars with black and white checks. These babies are 15 passenger vans that will stop anywhere along the side of the road to pick anyone up and cram more than 15 people inside! And of course, there are important rules to follow here as well:

We hire a taxi to take us to Church every Sunday, but
normally, Sarah & I simply catch one on the side of the road

1. Never get in an empty taxi. There are stories of kidnappings – not that I’ve been witness to this or even know of it’s validity. It’s better to be safe than sorry.
2. Always be aware of your personal belongings. There are also stories of sophisticated robberies on board taxis. For example, someone may ask you to close the door, while another’s got their hands inside your purse. After claiming your wallet, then shove you out of the taxi and take off. Again, I’ve never seen this, but one can never be too careful.
3. Always listen for the taxi route. You want to go to Shoprite? The taxi is going to Kampala. Well, Shoprites on the way, right? Not if the conductor doesn’t say Nakawa. Listen up or you’ll get on the wrong one (kind of like bus routes in the US).

3. Private Hire. Many people make their living by hiring themselves out as private hire drivers. They have a car. They can drive. Might as well make a business out of it. And of course there are companies that some drivers are employed by as well. Typically, we use these on Saturdays to pick us up from the grocery store or to be dropped off or picked up from the Airport.

4. Walking. The way to get from here to there – walking. A LOT of Ugandans simply walk wherever they need to go. Most school children walk, regardless of whether it takes them 2 hours to get to school or not, as many simply cannot afford transportation costs.

There you have it. And I use ALL 4 methods every Saturday. Fun, huh?

Oh, just to give you a better flavor, I should probably talk about TRAFFIC. Live in SoCal and think the 405 is bad? Live in NorCal and think 880 is bad? Live anywhere else and imagine and think the traffic jams you’ve been caught in are the worst? Now add 1000 massive pot holes, boda boda’s weaving in between the cars, taxi’s stopping on the side of the road (sometimes blocking traffic) then pulling back in, people walking everywhere (including in the road, between the cars), and exhaust fumes. And throw in people creating their own lanes for good measure, and now you have Kampala traffic. Seriously, I’ve been in taxi’s that create their own lane in the middle of the road to pass a slower vehicle – even when there is oncoming traffic. The craziest thing, no one gets mad. I’ve rarely seen road rage here. You just go with the flow; you let people in; you slow down for pedestrians. A car just cut you off – no problem! I should probably learn some of these lessons myself. :)

P.S. I love the looks of the people in the taxi’s when I climb in. I don’t see Mzungu’s very often in the taxi’s. hee hee!

P.P.S. There are big buses and such for in-country and inter-country travel. I just haven’t experienced them (yet!)

World Aids Day

Every Thursday, Sarah & I trek into Kampala to go to Watoto Kampala Church (formerly KPC) for Bible Study. Tonight, was a little different than most Bible Studies I’ve been to. First, they were having a “Watoto’s Got Talent” night. There was lots of dancing and singing and even an eating contest!

Most of the participants were asked what their status was. At first I thought they meant single or married (they’ve done this before, so I just assumed). But, that’s not what they were asking. The answer was positive or negative or something about a zero. And I've never been in a church service where they asked you to tell your neighbor: 1. if you are a virgin; 2. when your last HIV test was; and 3. if you are on the sexual network. I was very confused until one of the Pastor’s cleared it up for me.

You see, today, Dec 1, is World AIDS Day.  And this year, the theme is “Getting to Zero.” According to AVERT.org,  “After 30 years of the global fight against HIV/AIDS, this year the global community has committed to focusing on achieving 3 targets: Zero new HIV infections. Zero discrimination. Zero AIDS-related deaths.”

The statistics for 2010:

2.7 million new HIV infections

1.8 million people died from AIDS

And yet, this day has taken on even greater significance since I am in Africa and in Uganda. While brushing up on my AIDS facts for this blog post, I learned that Uganda was one of the first and hardest hit countries in the 1970s-1980s. It reached epidemic status with 20-30% of the population being infected prior to most other African countries. And while Uganda has made great strides and is often looked to among African nations on ways to decrease HIV and AIDS occurrences, the numbers tell the story:

1.2 million - estimated number of people living with HIV in Uganda

150,000 – estimated number of children with HIV (though if all children were tested, I think you would see this number increase)

64,000 – estimated number of people who died from AIDS in 2009

1.2 million – number of children who have been orphaned by Uganda's devastating epidemic.

Sobering, isn’t it? One of the young girls at Watoto gave a testimony and her shirt started the conversation. It said simply “I am positive”. She’s a single mother, who was sexually abused for years, became a sex addict and has been living with HIV for the past 10 years (that’s when she was tested), but she has a great and positive outlook because she has a hope and everlasting future in Jesus. She’s proud to say she’s positive because it opens doors for her to share her faith.

She reminded me of a verse in Romans, when we are called “more than conquerors”. Conquering HIV/AIDS may not be an earthly possibility, but it is certainly no match for an everlasting future in Heaven.

The Fine Art of Cooking

I like to cook. I really like to bake. But I don’t do either very often. Let’s face it, it’s hard to cook for one person. Say you make a great lasagne. You have to freeze over half of it and eat the other half for the entire week when you are just one person. Cooking for 25 is another matter entirely. Especially in Uganda.

While in America I may be used to a nice electric or gas stove top for cooking, here in Uganda we rely on a little thing called the Charcoal stove. We actually do have a stove top, but it can cost a pretty penny to fire it up every day. Charcoal provides a much more economical solution. Learning how to operate one of these bad boys is an experience. For instance, say you are supposed to take your dinner from a “boil” to a  “simmer”. It’s not like there’s a little nob for that. But there is a way to do it, just take out some of that fiery hot charcoal and presto-chango, you can now simmer.

We have a set menu at the home for dinner each week, but regardless of the dish there are a few things that are ALWAYS used: cooking oil; grated tomatoes; chopped carrots, green pepper and onions; garlic; and spices like beef masala, curry, royco and salt. Go ahead. Try it. You know you want to.

One of my favorite meals is Uganda Spaghetti. There’s no red sauce, but it is oh-so-delicious! In fact, I like it so much that on Mondays, I help Aunt Margret with the cooking, so that I can learn how to make it for family & friends when I am in the states. I even bought the needed ingredients (the ones that you can’t find in America), so get ready to taste Uganda Spaghetti, friends!!

Anyway, I do often get laughed at – not in a menacing way – when “learning” to cook the Ugandan way. They don’t see me cooking very often, so I think that they think that I don’t know how. Yesterday, while waiting for the cooking oil to heat, Aunt Margret threw a few pieces of onion in the pan to see if the oil was hot enough and I got the most peculiar question posed to me “Do you know why she did that?” I had to laugh a little and say, “Yes, I do know how to cook.” I guess one of these days, I’ll have to prove that to them and make a whole meal myself :).

I’m Gonna Wash that Dirt Right Outta My Clothes

Yes, the long awaited (and promised) LAUNDRY blog! (Oooo … was that a cheer I just heard?)

I’ve never really minded doing laundry. Ironing, on the other hand is another story. I base buying clothes on whether it will need ironing. But that’s besides the point … back to laundry. Laundry days (or nights) in my house typically involved a movie whilst doing it, which made it more fun. That and seeing the delight on my roommates faces of my multi-color piles. Yes, I really do separate darks from whites and then I go a step further and have a pile for reds, oranges and pinks and another pile for blues, greens and purples. Into the machine go the “whites”, then the “blues”, then the “reds” and finally “blacks” – in that order. Fresh from the dryer it creates a whole rainbow effect after everything is folded. And my AR-ness absolutely loves it (AR – anal retentive).

Here in Uganda, laundry is quite another matter. It’s quite rare to find a washing machine in someone’s house and forget about a dryer. Although, I’m quite lucky and there is a washing machine here at the home, but first, you must graduate from hand washing before attempting machine washing.

First things first … you need, 3 tubs, water and soap. Line up your tubs:

Tub 1 – the washing tub. Put in some soap and swirl around. Add dirty clothes.

Tub 2 – first rinse

Tub 3 – final rinse

Once you’ve got your clothes in the washing tub, it’s time to put your back into it. Literally. Bend over, grab the bar soap, rub it into your garment and get scrubbing. There is a technique that I, personally, have not mastered yet (it takes years of practice), but I do try. Lucky for me the kids are gracious enough to help me after they are done with their own laundry! Next, on to inspection … did you really get your shirt clean? Better check. Once you pass, throw it into the “first rinse bin” and grab the next dirty item.

Now you have some items in the “first rinse bin”, it’s time for … drum roll … the first rinse (wow, you all guessed that correctly and now win a prize). Rinse it thoroughly using some of the same techniques from washing and then ring it out, getting all the soap out. And when I say, “ring it out”, I really mean it. If we all did our laundry this way, we would have arms of steel!

On to “final rinse” … pretty much the same as “first rinse”. Ring, ring, ring out those clothes as hard as you can. And up on the line (or the ground) they go. Uganda does have a universal dryer … it’s called the sun. Oh, but make sure you have your clothes inside out. And now, your laundry is done, your back is a little sore and your arms are closer to steel than they were before you started.

Lucky for me, I can use the washing machine. I only use it occasionally and it too can create arms of steel. You see, the washing machine can fill with water on its own, but only if you wait a really long time. And there is no guarantee that the electricity will remain on while you wait (or that we have running water at the moment you want to wash). So, it’s best if you haul your own water. Last week, I hauled bucket upon bucket from our outside cistern of water. It’s kind of like a well, in that you drop a bucket on a rope into the cistern and then heave it out – using those arms of steel that you are cultivating. You do this again and again and again. Presto – washer full and can now wash your clothes or sheets or towels. Oh, but wait … there’s more. Did you forget the rinse cycle? You have to do it all again in order to rinse your clothes.

 

And now, I bet your probably thinking I don’t like laundry day so much anymore. On the contrary, mon ami! I still don’t mind doing laundry. Sometimes I think of it as my exercise for the day. Sometimes it’s all about being with the kids – they actually clamor to help me!

So there it is friends … laundry, Uganda style. I'm working on my arms of steel!! Ha ha!

The Jerrycan Parade

Ah, the Jerrycan. Your best friend, your worst enemy. I love it and hate it all in the same breath.

As pictured here, you can see that the Jerrycan is a yellow jug of sorts, which at one time held cooking oil, but has been cleaned to now hold water. A precious commodity in Africa. The water is then used for doing the laundry, for washing dishes, for washing your hands, for cooking and drinking water, for bathing and for flushing the toilet.

Whether we have running water or not, the Jerrycan parade is always in full swing. Meaning, that the Jerrycans are always filled with water. Because they are used for so many things, and you never know if/when the running water in the house will shut off, it’s important to keep the parade going. And always have a few in your bathroom, just in case!

So, empty Jerrycans are brought outside to be refilled. Full Jerrycans are lined up in nice, neat rows (something an OCD like myself really appreciates) ready for use.

LAUNDRY. More on this later, but the Jerrycan water is emptied into big tubs for washing, the first rinse and the final rinse.

COOKING/DRINKING. Because there are no lids or caps on the Jerrycans, you must strain the water from the Jerrycan into whatever pot you are using. Strainers thus become a very important tool in everyday living. Water from the Jerrycan must boil for it to be okay to drink or cook with. (Water from the tap also must be boiled before drinking.)

BATHING. Here’s a fun trick I’ve learned. If you want hot water for bathing (no hot water in the house), you can put a couple of Jerrycans around the charcoal stove while Aunt Margaret is cooking dinner. And voila! Hot water for bathing. Then, you can just dump the Jerrycan over your head to resemble a shower!

FLUSHING. Normally we have flushing toilets, but when the water is off, you can flush using a Jerrycan. Now, simply trying to pour  or “glub-glub-glub” the water directly from the Jerrycan into the toilet does not provide enough force to actually “flush” it. You must first pour the water into a bucket and then throw the bucket of water down the toiler thereby creating enough force to push the contents through the pipes.

Oh, the things a Jerrycan can do! That must be why they call it a Jerry-CAN instead of a Jerry-CAN’T. …Okay, that was pretty bad, even for me!

One more thing I forgot to mention … before bathing, it’s a good idea to check the Jerrycan for any creepy crawlees, as I learned the other night. YIKES!

T.I.A.

Disclaimer: disturbing images appear in this blog. Read with caution.

For those of you unfamiliar with the term T.I.A., not to fret … I was too until a few months ago, when on my 3^rd mission trip to Africa I heard this phrase. T.I.A., something westerners say to explain the differences between being in Africa and being in the states (or Canada or Australia or Europe, etc). T.I.A. translates to “This is Africa”. Do not mistake this for something derogatory or degrading. It is far from it. It is simply a reminder, for those of us who now find ourselves in a different culture than we are used to, that we should not expect things to be the same or work the same. Africa is different than what we may be used to, but that doesn’t mean it’s worse or for that matter better. It’s just different. Of course, should a Ugandan come to the states, I’m sure they could use the same phrase, except it would mean This is America!

And so many times in the past few weeks, I have to say to myself, TIA. Sometimes, I rephrase to say OIA – Only in Africa! For instance, a tragic accident happened about a week ago in which 2 pastors and one of their assistants was killed in a car crash. One of the pastor’s was from the states and had been working with the local pastor from Uganda for many years. It is a terrible loss to the ministry they were involved in. There was a full write up in both the English and Luganda (the language spoken in this area) newspapers on the work they did and on the accident itself. When I first saw the Luganda newspaper, I was quite shocked at the graphic images of the car crash. See picture. Definitely not something you would see in the states.

Even everyday things like laundy, cooking and shopping take on a different light. Things that I’ve gotten used to or am still getting used to! Check out the fridge. It’s important to make sure bread doesn’t go bad within the week, so it’s put in the fridge. But have you ever seen a fridge mostly filled with bread? T.I.A.

So, I’m learning to smile, nod, say TIA in my head and do things the Ugandan way. And isn’t it fun learning new things?

Topics coming soon on how we do laundry, how to cook amazing Uganda spaghetti and how we get around!

Living with the Rats

So, if you are my friend on Facebook and have seen my status you know that I have a rat in my room. Most unexpected and most unwelcome. Here’s how the story unfolds:  I opened my closet Sunday morning and was deciding which dress to wear to church. My dresses are neatly folded and on top of a stack of other things. After rifling through them, I decide on one and pull it out. In retrospect, I realize it was not coming easily and I had to pull a little harder than normal and in a nanosecond, I realize why. A rat thudded to the floor at my feet. Or maybe it wasn’t a nanosecond – I think I was in shock, as was the rat. We both stood still for a moment and then my shock dissipated turning into hysterical screams as I ran and jumped on my bed and the little vermin scurried under it. I was still screaming as Mama Grace ran into my room. Poor Mama Grace. I think I almost gave her a heart attack. She’s standing there, hand over heart, thanking God that I’m alive. She thought I had electrocuted myself. I explained to her with heart still pounding a mile a minute that I saw a rat. A rat! A rat!! To think, my hands had been rifling through my dresses with the rat inside – SHUDDER!! And she is standing nonchalantly on the floor, where the rat could have easily crawled across her feet. (I know, I know, rats are just as scared of us as we are of them – I’ve heard it and it doesn’t make me feel any better). And that was my Sunday morning.

Lawrence does come in a moment later and looks for it, while I’m sitting on my bed. At which point he tells me: “rats are very smart and can crawl up anything, even your bed.” Yes, I jump off my bed and run directly into the sitting room, sit on the couch and pull my feet up! While we are at church, we put Molly (the cat) in my room, only to return and find her sleeping peacefully on my bed. Some guard cat she’s turned out to be! So, Charles and Chris go through EVERYTHING in my room and come up empty handed. But never fear, they assure me that there is no rat in my room and it’s safe. They looked everywhere after all. Skip ahead to bedtime, when Charles informs me “Auntie, keep your ears open.” I ponder and ask “Why?” “For the rat,” he says. “But I thought you said it wasn’t in there!” “Oh, I just wanted you to go back in your bedroom.” Ahhhh, thanks Charles! Needless to say, I take one of the boys in the room with me, grab my pillow, computer and mosquito net and hightail it out of there! I am sleeping in another room tonight.

Here’s the thing about rats … they are sneaky. They know when to hide. They can steal your food. They poop anywhere. They can eat your clothes and make you go a little zany in the head (especially if you don’t particularly like them!). Most unwelcome. And they can “accidentally” appear out of nowhere at a moments notice. Most unexpected. Isn’t  that how sin manifests in our lives too? Sometimes it’s left hiding in the shadows of our minds and makes an appearance when we least expect it. And when we leave it there without dealing with it … it steals and spoils the life God intended us to have. The good news is that you don’t have to fight it alone. That’s what friends and family are for. They can help you hunt out your rats and kill them!

So, I’m dealing with my rat problem(s). Are you?